Have you noticed how everyone seems to be talking about Sidemen right now? It’s all over social media, and a visit here tells you, it isn’t so much about what’s there, it’s more about how it makes you feel. Since the early part of the last century, Sidemen’s stunning views have been a magnet for painters, preserving its quiet beauty and majestic views for future generations. Pockets of Sidemen feel like you’ve stepped straight off the canvas.
It hasn’t got the most amazing waterfalls ( although it has some beauties), there aren’t any major temples or incredible hikes, it’s a slow kind of place, you slow down in Sidemen, you stop to take in the beauty, breathe the clean air and watch the sky change colour.
Sidemen has been “next” for a while now, but my last trip sealed it. This valley is having a moment, and it’s not by accident. The combination of bamboo architecture, slow-living luxury, lush rice terraces, warm local hospitality, and a food scene that’s quietly getting better each year makes Sidemen feel like Bali with the volume turned down. It gives you space to breathe and a view that stretches across time, from ancient temples to the smoking silhouette of Mount Agung.
We stayed at Veluvana and Samanvaya on this trip, two very different stays that capture the area’s evolution. Veluvana is all fantasy and bamboo curves, while Samanvaya is polished, grown-up, and unexpectedly expansive now that the wellness campus has opened across the rural road. By the end of the trip, I found myself thinking the same thing everyone else does: this place gets under your skin.
Below is a full guide to Sidemen, from the best stays to the cafés, local warungs, and things to do when you’re not lounging in a bamboo nest looking at Mt Agung.
The Allure of Sidemen: Why Now?
Sidemen has long been a favourite of landscape painters and old Bali romantics. But today’s travellers are looking for something different from the island: rest, nature, authenticity, and design that matches the setting. Sidemen delivers all of that without trying too hard.
The valley feels untouched but not inaccessible. You still have boutique stays, quality food, good coffee, and spas that know what they’re doing. You also get birdsong, villages still making ceremonial textiles, farmers working the land, and views that shift from emerald to gold depending on the time of day.
It’s a balance most parts of Bali struggle to maintain.
Where to Stay in Sidemen
Veluvana: The Bamboo Fantasy You’ve Probably Seen on Instagram
We stayed at Veluvana Mountain, a cluster of bamboo houses perched over a valley with nothing but trees, fields, and the distant hum of nature. Each house has its own personality — some feel like floating pods, others like treehouses or sculptural nests — but all share the same open-air intimacy with the landscape.
In the early mornings, we woke to soft, pearly light over the valley. If Agung felt generous, it revealed itself in full. It’s the kind of view you stare at because you can’t quite believe it’s real. You’re inside nature, not just looking at it.
Interiors are simple, warm, and functional; the outdoor bathrooms are a highlight. The pool looks straight out to the horizon, and mornings here have a silence you don’t get in many parts of Bali anymore.
It’s a stay that feels magical without being pretentious. Planning a stay? Check current rates for your dates
Samanvaya: Sidemen’s Most Polished Hideaway
This was my second stay at Samanvaya, and returning felt like catching up with an old friend who has grown in exactly the right ways. The resort now spans two sides of a small, picturesque rural road: the original eco-resort offers wooden bungalows, gardens, and tropical quiet, while the new development is a collection of modern villas with private pools, a restaurant and bar and a dedicated wellness centre.
Both sides have their charm.
The original part of the resort is warm, intimate, and wrapped with greenery overlooking working rice terraces. The villas on the new side feel contemporary, airy, and private, with beautiful views and thoughtful touches.
The wellness centre is a major addition, and it changes the rhythm of a stay here. Think treatments designed around deep rest, hot and cold therapies, peaceful rice terrace outlooks, and slow mornings with good coffee.
The restaurant, Sahaja, remains one of the best in the area. Breakfast is relaxed and generous. The lunch and dinner menu offers Indonesian meets Asian-fusion without forcing it. Everything we ate was delicious. View rates for upcoming dates here.
Wapa di Ume Sidemen: A Balinese-Owned Classic That Loves Its Landscape
Wapa di Ume Sidemen feels like a tribute to the valley. Balinese-owned and low-rise, it preserves the natural curves of the land instead of competing with them. The resort flows across rice terraces, palms, secret corners, and framed views of Mount Agung.
It’s peaceful, grounding, and a great example of how to build in Sidemen without overwhelming the environment. Rooms are calm and comfortable, and the property offers that gentle Balinese service that feels both sincere and unhurried.
It’s a beautiful option for those who want classic style and plenty of space. See pricing details for your stay here.
Where to Eat and Drink in Sidemen
Sidemen’s food scene is small but full of little gems. You won’t find big-name chefs or dramatic tasting menus here. Instead, you get home-grown cooking, farm-to-table ethos, and surprising little cafés with great coffee and views that steal the show.
Here are the standouts:
Koli Koli at Veluvana Mountain
A relaxed, open-air spot perched high above the valley, Koli Koli serves the kind of food you want when you’re surrounded by this much nature. Think fresh plates, comforting Indonesian dishes, and simple Western favourites done well. We had an early dinner here during our stay at Veluvana Mountain, and it just hit the right notes. The views are ridiculously good – mountains, fields, sunsets and palm trees – and the setting makes even a quick meal feel special. It’s the kind of place you settle into without realising an hour has passed. There are little pod-like plunge pools dotted around the gardens and terraced bamboo buildings that bring a little jun gle club vibes to Sidemen.
Citrus & Vine
We’re all for stopping at the warung for a local feed, but sometimes you crave a decent coffee, a smoothie bowl or even a bowl of nourishing oats. This is the place. Great for brunch and the kind of wholesome plates we love when living closer to nature. There are some sweet treats baked in-house that captured our eye, including a decadent carrot cake we couldn’t resist. Set beside rice fields, this is a great road stop and a treat for guests at Samanvaya. Sandwiches, coffee, fresh bowls, baked goods, and a very relaxed setting.
Sahaja (at Samanvaya)
There’s something a little grand about Sahaja – perhaps it’s the antique carpets, chandeliers and the long mirrored bar? Here you have the option to eat in the dining room under an antique carved joglo, or head outside to the expansive terrace and soak up the views. The menu is Asian fusion, so we tried a little Thai, a little Indonesian and a bit of Indian. The food is generous, fresh and wholesome with enough spice to keep us interested. One of the most reliable meals in Sidemen. This is a little formal and feels a bit special.
Warung Uma Anyar
Some of the local warungs will make you laugh with their names – Lihat Sawa was one of those – it literally translates to ‘see rice fields’. It does that. Local warungs are sprinkled throughout Sidemend. This is a Balinese village at heart, and local places owned by families who live and farm here are common. Warung Uma Anyar was one we tried, it was everything we wanted – local, simple, and very good. Come for the views, stay for the flavours.
Warung Dapur Kapulaga
Yet another warung that caught our eye, Warung Dapur Kapulaga introduced us to warm locals and fresh, spicy Balinese dishes. It’s simple, touching and a great way to interact with locals on your way through Sidemen. Cheap, authentic, and lovely.
Lunch spots with a view
Many roadside cafés are built on the valley’s edge and are great stops for Bali coffee and traditional meals with panoramic rice terraces. Try Asri Dining or Warung Kunang Kunang for easy lunches.
Spas and Wellness in Sidemen
Lunch spots with a view
A big step forward for Sidemen. Treatments are designed around deep rest, hydrotherapy circuits, and a peaceful setting overlooking the fields. This is definitely a luxe option for Sidemen, with hot and cold pools, a steam room, a sauna with a view and a treatment menu that offers traditional massages along with modern wellness favourites. Scrubs and facials are also on offer.
Mukasa Spa
A small local favourite offering Balinese massage, flower baths, and good foot reflexology at friendly prices.
Wapa di Ume Spa
Serene, nature-focused, and perfect at sunset.
Wellness here leans more towards traditional, slow, and grounding rather than glossy and high-end. It suits the setting.
What to Do in Sidemen
Sidemen is ideal for travellers who want nature, local culture, and gentle adventure.
Rice Terrace Walks
This alone could fill your days. Paths weave through fields and villages, with farmers working, ducks marching in lines, and temples appearing around corners.
Mount Agung Viewpoints
Sidemen has some of the island’s best perspectives of Bali’s highest and holiest mountain.
River Rafting
The Telaga Waja River offers white-water rafting that’s fun but manageable for most travellers.
Weaving Villages
Sidemen is known for songket, the intricately hand-woven ceremonial fabric. Visiting a workshop is fascinating.
Tukad Cepung Waterfall
A little drive away, but worth it if you go early. Sunbeams through the canyon create a magical scene.
Besakih Temple
Bali’s mother temple sits on the slopes of Agung. Sidemen is one of the best bases for visiting.
Sidemen Swing
Touristy but surprisingly fun, with some of the best valley photos.
Cooking Classes
Many resorts and local families offer cooking lessons using ingredients from their gardens.
Why Sidemen Leaves an Impression
It’s the stillness that impresses first. The wide-open spaces that linger in the mind’s eye. The knowledge that you are in a part of Bali that has inspired artists, writers and dreamers. Sidemen is spacious. Life has a rhythm here, and you feel yourself slipping into it within hours.
Our days at Veluvana started with soft mist and the sound of birds. Our days at Samanvaya were all about deep rest, good food, and rediscovering how quiet a mind can get when surrounded by so much space.
The local community is involved in every aspect of tourism here, from offering massages and blessings at the local resorts to hosting tours and activities to simply welcoming you. Tourists and villagers coexist in perfect harmony, adding soul to the place.
Yet, it also inspires. The bamboo architecture, the gentle luxury, the way locals protect their land and craft, the valley shaped by generations. It’s hard not to admire the balance.
Final Thoughts
When people ask why everyone is suddenly talking about Sidemen, the answer is easy: it’s one of the last places in Bali that feels like a timeless retreat into nature without sacrificing comfort.
The magic lies in the contrasts — raw valleys and refined villas, age-old traditions meet modern wellnesspractices, village life coexists with creative architecture. It’s a place that surprises you, calms you, and stays with you.
After our recent stay, I understand it perfectly, and the urge to go back is strong. I’m talking to everyone I know about it, and I guess that’s how it happens. Sidemen isn’t just beautiful, it’s restorative and can restore your faith that the real Bali still exists. And that’s good news for everyone who has sat in traffic and battled crowds in duty shops. Get off the beaten track, while it still offers places like Sidemen, where, for now, they got it right.
