From charming home-style hotels to 5-star resorts, ancient temples, beautiful bays lined with majestic palms, secret beaches and surprising culinary gems, East Bali’s charm has a way of creeping up on you.
It’s slower, slightly shabby in parts and as far from Canggu as you’ll get; that’s why so many people fall in love with this part of Bali and come back over and over again. As you turn right after Sanur onto the wide tar road that stretches to the Amed turnoff, the palm-fringed coast offers glimpses of what to expect, from views to Nusa Penida to misty mountains and villages unchanged by time.
Candi Dasa - the gateway to East Bali.
Candi Dasa is a small coastal town on Bali’s east coast that has attracted tourists for decades. Known for its relaxed atmosphere and scenic ocean views, it’s a little ramshackle, but that is part of the charm. In between the endless warungs and local shops are a few hidden gems worth exploring. Once a quiet fishing village, it has attracted a small community of expats escaping the busier South, drawn to the palm-fringed vistas, the slower pace and the pretty villages.
On the main strip of Candi Dasa, Vincent’s is an institution – a French restaurant run by Dutch owners with a long bar, a pretty garden and live jazz nights. It’s the place visitors head when they’ve had their fill of grilled fish and Nasi campur, although that’s on the menu too.
Along the beachfront, almost every hotel has a seaside restaurant, some of which are better than others. A former Australian chef owns Terrace at Bayshore Villas offering a mix of Western and Indonesian dishes in a pretty seaside spot. Mix up duck a l’orange with plates of mixed satay and a decent bottle of wine on a sunny day or a moonlit evening and settle back to enjoy the calm.
Local food still reigns in this part of Bali, so venture out and try freshly caught seafood dishes, local favourites and Indonesian classics. Lezat on the beach is recommended.
This is agricultural land where coffee, cacao, cashews and vanilla are abundant. Two local chocolate companies based here will satisfy any cravings and offer a fascinating glimpse into the art of chocolate making – Check out Sorga or the Bali Chocolate Factory.
East Bali is charming; it captivates the spirit and reveals another side to Bali, one that feels more authentic and offers travellers a chance to breathe, relax and revel in island life at any budget.
From Luxury to Budget Stays and some damn fine dining.
Amankila is the area’s most famous resort, and it’s a beauty for those who can afford the nightly rates. The beach club is open to the public, and it’s beautiful, if you don’t mind spending $15 on a beer and over $50 for a burger, it’s still worth it for the natural beauty, the quiet sophistication and a dip in the calm waters. Bragging rights are free!
Other luxury hotels along this coast include the Alila Manggis, which is also beautiful and slightly more affordable, and Puri Bagus, a graceful classic. Its peaceful seaside location is a draw.
Puri Oka Candi Dasa, an old favourite.
When I’m in Candi Dasa, I hang my sarong at Puri Oka. It feels like a home away from home with staff who have worked here for decades, home-style food and a lagoon for swimming right off the terrace. Its nightly rates of under $100, the seaside location, and its local character bring me back regularly. The rooms are clean, air-conditioned and comfortable. The boho-chic decor suits this part of the world, and many of the guests are regular visitors who know the staff by name ( many of whom are second-generation at Puri Oka) and know exactly what to order. With a pool and a small spa, it’s the perfect place to simply relax.
Local tip: Book one of their 3 villas to enjoy stunning views of the ocean.
Bali Asli - dine in the shadow of Mt Agung.
Some of the best food and views in this area are found at Bali Asli, up the hill in Amlapura. It’s a time-honoured favourite for a glorious lunch in the shadow of Bali’s most sacred mountain, the imposing Mt Agung. Opened by Australian chef Penny Williams, the restaurant pays homage to Balinese food, grown locally and cooked in a wood-fired kitchen. It’s a beautiful and affordable introduction to Balinese food and traditions with one of the best views on the East Coast.
Cooking classes are a draw at Bali Asli for those who want to take home culinary memories of their trip or learn more about the secret spice mixtures that define Balinese food. It’s more than a class; the day begins with a trip to the local market to stock up on fresh seafood and vegetables and learn more about the local producers.
Top Tip: Bali Asli is now open until 7.30 PM – perfect for those who fancy a long lunch and sunset cocktails in the shadow of the mountains. BYO wine or ask Penny about her secret cellar!
Check out our Guide to where to stay, play and eat in Candi Dasa and East Bali:
STAY:
Amankila
Perched on a cliff with sweeping views of the Lombok Strait, Amankila is the crown jewel of East Bali’s luxury offerings. It’s part of the Aman group, known for minimalist elegance and serene spaces. The resort features stilted suites, a stunning three-tiered infinity pool, and a beach club nestled between coconut palms. It’s a splurge, for sure, but ideal for those looking for top-tier service and total seclusion. Non-guests can access the stunning restaurant or beach club for a premium (think $15 beers and $50 burgers), but the experience is worth it for the tranquillity and world-class setting.
Alila Manggis
Alila Manggis blends five-star comfort with modern Balinese architecture and lush tropical surroundings. Located between the sea and Mount Agung, the resort offers a peaceful escape with stylish rooms, an ocean-facing pool, and a well-regarded restaurant serving local and international cuisine. It’s more accessible than Amankila, but still delivers polished, understated luxury. Great for couples, solo travellers, or anyone wanting to unwind in a less-touristed part of the island.
Puri Bagus Candidasa
Puri Bagus is a classic East Bali stay — elegant yet grounded in tradition. This locally owned hotel sits right on the water and is known for its peaceful gardens, oceanfront pool, and warm hospitality. Rooms are spacious, with Balinese touches and private terraces. The vibe is calm and quiet, making it perfect for those wanting to reset and recharge. It’s not overrun with tourists and feels more intimate than many bigger resorts.
Puri Oka Beach Bungalows
Puri Oka is a low-key, beachfront hotel in Candi Dasa that keeps its loyal guests coming back. It’s simple and charming, with clean, air-conditioned rooms, boho-chic decor, and an unbeatable location on the sea. Nightly rates are under $100, making it a great choice for budget-conscious travellers who still want comfort and character. The atmosphere is relaxed and friendly — many of the staff have worked here for years and know returning guests by name. The restaurant has great views and serves home-cooked Indonesian and Western dishes. It’s not fancy, but it nails that laid-back, coastal Bali vibe.
Where to Find Great Local and Western Food in Candi Dasa:
Bali Asli
Bali Asli is more than just a restaurant — it’s an experience. Set high in the hills of Amlapura with a jaw-dropping view of Mount Agung, it’s one of the best places in East Bali to connect with the island’s culture through food. Founded by Australian chef Penny Williams, Bali Asli is built on the philosophy of local sourcing and traditional cooking methods. Ingredients are either grown on-site or sourced from nearby villages, and everything is cooked over wood fire — no gas, no electricity.
The menu changes daily depending on what’s available, but expect authentic Balinese flavours that are bold, fresh and deeply rooted in tradition. Think banana leaf-wrapped fish, spice-rich sambals and seasonal vegetables straight from the garden.
Bali Asli also offers immersive cooking classes, which include a trip to the morning market and hands-on time in the kitchen. It’s a great way to learn the techniques behind Balinese food and get a feel for the local rhythm of life. Whether you’re here for lunch or to join a class, Bali Asli delivers a truly memorable taste of East Bali.
Vincent’s
A long-standing favourite in Candi Dasa, Vincent’s is a charming bistro-style restaurant known for its relaxed European vibe, leafy courtyard and live jazz nights. The French-leaning menu is varied — from steak and seafood to pastas and classic Indonesian dishes — and the long bar is great for a sunset drink or two. Dutch-owned and much loved by regulars, it’s the kind of place people return to when they want something a little more refined than a beach warung, but still casual and friendly.
The garden seating is a highlight, especially in the evenings when fairy lights and music create a warm, inviting atmosphere. Vincent’s offers something for everyone — whether you’re in the mood for duck confit, a simple nasi goreng, or just a good glass of wine and live music.
Lezat Beach Restaurant
Right on the sand in Candi Dasa, Lezat is a local favourite that serves up fresh seafood, Indonesian classics and a few well-done Western options. The setting is laid-back and breezy, perfect for a no-fuss lunch or dinner with ocean views. It’s the kind of spot where you kick off your shoes, order a cold Bintang, and settle in with a grilled snapper or a plate of spicy mie goreng.
The vibe is unpretentious, the staff are friendly, and the prices are fair. While it’s not fine dining, it’s honest food made well, and when the sea breeze hits just right, it’s hard to beat.
Terrace at Bayshore Villas
Terrace at Bayshore Villas is a casual oceanfront restaurant that gets the balance just right; it’s simple but polished, with a menu that moves easily between Western favourites and Indonesian classics. Owned by a former Australian chef, the kitchen delivers dishes like duck à l’orange, satay platters, and fresh seafood with a side of sea breeze. It’s a great spot for a long lunch or easygoing dinner, for sipping wine under the sun or enjoying the moonlit coastline.
The setting is a big part of the appeal — the dining area is a little set back but still offers good views, an affordable menu and a relaxed vibe that suits Candi Dasa’s slower pace. Service is friendly, portions are generous, and the wine list has a few good surprises. Whether you’re in the mood for a Western comfort dish or a spicy local bite, this place makes it easy to settle in and stay a while.
PLAY: Things to See and Do in East Bali.
Amankila Beach Club
Even non-guests can be Aman junkies for a day at the stunning Amankila Beach Club on Bali’s laid-back east coast. The Amankila Beach Club is an elegant sanctuary at the foot of one of Bali’s most prestigious resorts. Located within the resort’s Coconut Grove, the picturesque beach club blends style and luxurious service with stunning 5-star food at the poolside restaurant and a relaxed vibe. This is the place to splurge on champagne and lobster, stroll the quiet beachfront and play White Lotus for a day.
Unwind on oversized daybeds, enjoy open-air massages under the trees, or take a quiet moment in one of the eight beachside balés scattered along the black sand. The Beach Club’s indoor lounge provides a cool, breezy retreat, ideal for lazy lunches or a gentle start to the day.
Amankila’s Beach Club is a stunning choice for private celebrations — from intimate dinners to stylish beachfront events. Whether you’re here to experience one of the world’s most famous resorts or simply enjoy the sea, the shade, or a cocktail by the pool, this slice of East Bali blends old-world Bali style with effortless class.
The Beach Club is open daily from 12 pm to 5 pm.
Virgin Beach (Pantai Pasir Putih)
Virgin Beach is one of East Bali’s best-kept secrets — a peaceful strip of soft white sand framed by gentle waves and swaying coconut palms. It’s less crowded than the beaches down south and offers a more laid-back vibe. A handful of simple warungs line the shore, serving cold drinks and freshly grilled seafood. Rent a lounger, bring a book, and stay for the whole afternoon — or snorkel the rocky ends of the bay where colourful reef fish dart through coral. Access is via a short drive down a bumpy road, but it’s well worth the effort.
Padang Bai Snorkelling & Eco-Reef
Padang Bai isn’t just a ferry terminal — it’s also home to some fantastic snorkelling spots just offshore. The coral gardens here are part of a protected eco-reef, teeming with marine life and ideal for both beginners and more experienced snorkellers. You can rent gear locally or join a boat trip to explore Blue Lagoon and White Sand Beach nearby. Expect calm, clear waters, plenty of fish, and a few hidden underwater surprises. It’s an easy and affordable way to get a taste of Bali’s underwater world. Day boats are in abundance, and you won’t be in Padang Bai for five minutes without a local operator offering you a snorkelling trip. You can walk to the far end and snorkel off the beach for free, but the boat owners will take you to the best spots. Tours can be booked in advance.
Besakih Temple
Known as Bali’s “Mother Temple,” Besakih sits high on the slopes of Mount Agung and is considered the island’s most sacred site. It’s a large complex made up of over 80 temples, with sweeping views over rice fields and the ocean beyond. Visiting Besakih involves a bit of a climb — lots of stairs and steep paths — so take your time. It’s best to come with a guide who can explain the rituals and layout, as it’s still an active place of worship for local communities.
Mount Agung
Standing at over 3,000 metres, Mount Agung is Bali’s highest and most sacred peak. Climbing it is no small feat — treks typically start in the early morning and can take 6–8 hours round trip, depending on the route. But for those up for the challenge, the sunrise views from the top are unforgettable. You’ll need a local guide, proper footwear, and decent fitness. For those who prefer to admire it from afar, the mountain is visible from all over East Bali adding its dramatic presence to the region’s landscape.
Tenganan Village
Tenganan is one of Bali’s original Bali Aga (pre-Hindu) villages and offers a fascinating glimpse into a way of life that’s barely changed over the centuries. It’s known for its unique culture, traditional architecture, and beautiful handwoven double ikat textiles, which are only found here. Visitors can walk through the quiet village lanes, chat with local artisans, and browse handicrafts. It’s a quiet, respectful place, so dress modestly and observe local customs.
Tirta Gangga Water Palace
Built by the royal family of Karangasem, Tirta Gangga is a serene palace complex with tiered fountains, koi-filled ponds and stone pathways surrounded by tropical gardens. Originally a royal bathing site, the name means “water from the Ganges,” and the setting is just as peaceful as it sounds. You can wander through the gardens, feed the fish, or take a dip in one of the spring-fed pools. It’s one of East Bali’s most photogenic spots — great for a short stop or a slow stroll.
East Bali feels like stepping into a different rhythm. It’s quieter, more grounded, and steeped in a sense of old Bali that’s harder to find elsewhere. This part of the island is home to ancient villages where traditions still shape daily life, some of Bali’s most revered temples like Besakih and Lempuyang, and a coastline famous for world-class diving and water sports. But to really understand East Bali, you have to start with Klungkung. Once the seat of Bali’s most powerful kingdom, Klungkung played a key role in the island’s cultural and political history. It was the centre of the Gelgel dynasty and home to the Kerta Gosa, the royal courts known for their haunting ceiling paintings that depict karmic retribution. Today, Klungkung still carries that quiet authority — a gateway to the landscapes and customs that have defined Bali for centuries. Whether you’re here for the history, the temples, or the untamed beauty of the coast, East Bali delivers a side of the island that’s as rich as it is real.
